I will epoxy a M20 x 80mm bolt to the upper part of the wrench and install using fender washers to distribute the weight across the door.

My friends at the Garage Journal forum had many ideas of how to correct the heat marks. Some suggested covering the wrench with tape, still others mentioned powder coating, re-chroming, or even simple painting. The natural look of the wrench is important for my design idea. While I like the shiny chrome, it doesn't hold up when welded.

The best idea given to me was from member CAOS who suggested:

"Instead of welding bolts to the back for attaching to the door, why not epoxy two bolts into the box ends of the wrench. Then drill holes in the door to correspond with those bolts?"

What a great idea! The handles will not be subjected to any stress so this just might work.

Recently I scored a 1978 Snap-On Roller Chest. The problem is where to put the darn thing. After restoration of the chest, I am planning to build a shop cabinet around the Roller Chest.

Here's my shop cabinet design finished just a few moments ago. The framing will be standard 2x4 lumber, with 3/4" BC Plywood for the shelves, sides, top, and bottom.

I wanted doors but I didn't want cheesy looking plywood doors, even with edge trim. Standard sized kitchen cabinet doors wouldn't be right either. Luckily my good friend Dave come up with a nifty door solution.

An interior wood door I asked? "Yes", Dave said, "think outside the box." A design concept was born.

The 28" doors will be framed within the 2x4 cabinet frame. The doors will be flush mounted and feature 17mm-19mm S-Curve chrome wrenches as door handles. Clear LED rope lighting will run fore and aft of the shelf corners and operate through a door pressure switch.

Above the roller chest will be two 12" deep bookshelves with lighting. The flat top surface of the roller chest will be covered with a handmade oak table top, sans legs.

Stay tuned, this is gonna be fun!