I started on the Snap-On Rolla box today. The first process will be grinding off the multi-layered paint on the exterior surfaces. After a humbling experience with my air grinder, I switched over to a nifty Bosch 1380 SLIM. At 7.5 amps it has the power I need for grinding and stripping. My area has been besieged by wild fires. High temps, low humidity, and virtually zero rain have wrecked havoc throughout Florida. Officials say we have 333 fires burning in the state. We are constantly vigilant, and have our EVAC plans in place. Sadly, if we don't get rain, and soon, the worst is yet to come. The girls are well and chipper as ever, although they sense our tension. Finally, after a few weeks, the governor, who shall remain nameless on this site, declared a state of emergency. This will provide the resources of the National Guard and, if needed, Florida will ask additional states and FEMA for more help. Special thanks to all the firefighters and support units out there working like mad to keep us all safe. There is a special place in heaven for you. Godspeed to my friends, family, and neighbors. I found this nifty Re:Solve Paint & Prep Tool on a clearance deal @ Lowe's for $1.24! Designed by Wagic, this tool features 11 tools for paint and prep work. Inside you'll find a locking square blade putty knife, scraper, caulk squeegee, paint can opener, caulk tube opener, 2 Hex keys, and 4 screwdrivers. For light duty, like painting & prep, this tool should hold up well. I wouldn't attempt any tough mechanical tasks though. The paint can opener also doubles as a bottle opener, a nice bonus. I like the flexible caulk squeegee, but I know I'll lose it eventually. Keep an eye out next time your in the paint department @ Lowes. Hammers and mallets are essential to any shop, whether you're a professional or a DIY'er like myself. Although an average DIY'er won't need every style of hammer, it's always a good idea to have the right tool for the job. My collection of hammers will get me through most any project, whether I'm working with wood, metal, electrics, plastic, or furniture. Framing hammers, used for framing wooden houses, are heavy duty rip hammers with a straight claw. Heavy heads, longer handles and milled faces allow for driving large nails quickly into dimensional lumber. The straight claw serves the dual purpose of removing nails and acting as a crow bar to pry apart (rip) lumber. Soft Face hammers have replaceable faces, usually made of synthetic material or rubber but also of a softer metal such as copper. This hammer has soft and hard heads for better versatility. Rubber mallets are used when a softer blow is called for than that delivered by a metal hammer. They are typically used to form sheet metal, since they don't leave marks, as well as for forcing tight-fitting parts together, for shifting plasterboard into place, in upholstery, and a variety of other general purposes, including some toys. Rawhide mallets, which may employ rawhide covering a steel head, or simply consist of rolled-up rawhide, are used for leatherwork, jewellery, and assembling electric motors and delicate machinery. I couldn't resist this Thor Rawhide Hammer...it's made from water buffalo! Copper hammers are typically used on machinery to apply force to parts with a reduced risk of damaging them and to avoid sparks. As copper is softer than steel, the mallet is deformed rather than any steel object it is hitting. Popular Science said it best, "The Fubar's square head and tapered edge tore huge holes in the walls, and the toothed jaws wrenched studs so forcefully I swear I heard the wood cry out in pain." There is nothing better for demolition work. Also known as drilling hammer or a baby sledge hammer, a tool used for heavy hammering or demolition work. The heaviness of the engineer's hammer makes driving heavy spikes, wedges, or chiseling easier than using a lighter carpenter's hammer. These non-marring hammers are used to shape metal, in jewelery making, and watch repair. My own creation. It's heavy...it beats...it smashes...me like. Engineer Hammers feature heavy heads, similar to sledge hammers, but smaller and with shorter handles. Used for forming metal and driving punches and chisels. The Riveting Hammer (bottom) is flat for general purpose and the other is chisel-shaped for spreading rivet heads. I'm an avid participant on the Garage Journal forum, and routinely get jealous of the yard sale-pawn shop-craigslist scores that my friends are falling into. Finally I spied a Snap-On bottom chest on CL for $150. The description was vague and the seller didn't include a picture. I called the seller and asked a ton of questions which I learned from my GJ friends. The seller sends a pic: I'm still not convinced, so I pass on the deal. Meanwhile my GJ are sending me questions and advice. Then I get an email from the seller dropping the price to $100. My friends were now quite adamant...LEAVE NOW they said. Being a good doobie, I left. 80 miles, 2 hours, and $100 later here's what I scored: Not bad! There was even a full set of working keys. I'll start restoring the Snap-On chest first. Like a kid in a candy store, I can't wait to start! I took American Hammer up on their offer (since expired) for any hammer (under 2lbs.) for $25 shipped. When I browsed their website I was like a kid in a candy store. Which metal? Which handle? Which weight? I’m not a machinist or metallurgist, just your average DIY’er and weekend mechanic kind of guy. The brass hammers intrigued me since I started making red oak dice with brass rod inserts for the divots. Finally I chose the 8 ounce brass hammer. The hammer arrived well packaged and bubble wrapped in its own little black box. The hammer is just shy of 6 inches. It’s solid cast brass and weighs in at 9.3 ounces. The hammer is smooth with no rough edges. A nice polish finished it all up. The hammer feels good in the hand and is well balanced. I had no problems tapping in 1/4″ brass rod inserts on a new set of dice I’m working on. As you can see in the photo, the brass hammer is a sight to behold. I almost want to display it on my desk at work. My only quibble is the plastic American name tag. Eventually the tag will probably fall off. I think it would be better if American Hammer had their name cast in the handle instead of the plastic tag. Due to my honest review, Ted from American Hammer said that they were re-casting this hammer with American's name cast into the handles. Ted offered to send me a new hammer, gratis, when they were completed. I've waited, patiently, over a year now, no new hammer, no word from Ted at American Hammer. I still use and like my little 'un-named-because-the-tag-fell-off' brass hammer. I just wish Ted would have honored his promise. I snagged this lovely Wera set on Amazon for $20! Very handy for car/trucks tool kits, but especially handy for stashing tools on a motorcycle like I do. The set contains 29 bits, and the Rapidaptor holder ensures ultra fast bit changes. Bits are sorted by drive and size for quick retrieval and faster and simpler working. The opening mechanism of the Bit-Check can be operated with one hand making it easy to remove the bits. Simply push the slide switch and the box opens automatically. Bits and holders can be easily removed. Bit-Checks are thinner than the biggest tool they contain, so the tools even fit in your shirt pocket. The Rapidaptor allows you to change bits quickly with just one hand and without extra tools. Wera's claim that you can change the bits with one hand are true. The bits are finished nicely and display no cam-out when inserted in the proper fastener. The case is first-rate and shows excellent German design and engineering. A handy belt clip is also standard. It's hard to beat German engineering at this price. I should've bought two more. |


































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